Headache, nauseous, hungry and dead tired. That's how my body reacted to moving almost 3000 vertical meters in three days. Finally at 6100 meters and the summit of Mt. Chumpe I could honestly say it was worth it though.

Traveling through Latin-America one of our biggest goal was to scale one of the many mountains in Peru. After talking to a Danish girl we met in Guatemala we had our eyes set on the 6384 meter high Apu Ausangate. This climb would require over 10 days and an additional acclimatization climb. With our limited time we landed on a trip to Mount Chumpe instead, a 6100 meter high peak near the more technically demanding Ausangate.

From our starting point in Tinke we could get a good view of Apu Ausangate and learn a little about Alpaca farming

The women in Tinke doesn't waste time, and are spinning yarn and tending to their babies while they walk. 

To get some extra meters for acclimatization before our little expedition we traveled from Cusco up to Tinke, a little village at the foot of the impressive Apu Ausangate. On our way we passed what must be two of the sickest hills for longboarding ever, a newly paved mountain pass winding up 1000 meters from Urubamba and down again on the other side. Our bus struggled a lot on our way up and had to refill the radiator twice. The radio, alas, was pumping out traditional waina music at full blast, which can be a bit annoying if you’re trying to sleep. We did however sleep comfortably in Tinke and was treated to a delicious breakfast before we set out on our hike.

We sort of felt like colonial explorers when we set out with two guides, two porters and two horses to support us two gringos. We arranged the trip with the Cusco-based company Camp Expedition that our Danish friend recommended. The owner Jorge gave us good service and we had a great trip, but it was rather expensive seeing that we also had to rent most of the needed clothes and equipment. It definitely included a lot more than a mountain trip we’re used to though. When we arrived at our first campsite the tents were up, the water was boiling and a rock had been turned into a lunch table (tablecloth included).

Not a bad place to enjoy a nice meal

The load our porters carried was impressive, especially since it was done with sandals made out of tires and a backpack from a blanket and the tablecloth

The hike started from Malma, a little farming community at 4200 meters above sea level. The traditional alpaca and potato farms here stretched all the way up to 4800 meters and seasonal farms even higher. We moved rather quickly up into the mountain, but on the way down we camped in an alpaca pasture. There we caught a glimpse of the farm life and learned how the traditionally dressed farmers dried their potatoes. To be able to preserve the potatoes for up to two years they put the harvest through a long process. First the potatoes are spread out on the ground in the frosty nights and sunny days for a couple of weeks, then they squeeze out the last moisture by stepping on them. We also witnessed the slaughter of an alpaca (the meat tastes delicious!) and got to fish trout in the cold river flowing from the glacier. Relaxing in these picturesque surroundings was perfect after an arduous time up in the thin air.

Drying of potatoes

We reached base camp at the edge of the glacier leading up to Mt. Chumpe already on our second day, which might have been a little early. Staying at 5400 meters is hard when you’re not Peruvian. Vigdis got hit bad with altitude sickness and spent almost two days in the tent with a horrible headache unable to keep down any food. I too felt pretty bad, but as Vigdis had to return to a lower altitude with one of the porters, the soroushi pills finally kicked in so I could eat something.

Mt. Chumpe

After an evening alone in the tent without much sleep, praying that Vigdis made it down safe with a lighter head, I got up at 2 am and prepared to attack the summit. With nothing but coca tea for breakfast my two guides and I tied ourselves together and started walking over the glacier. Walking in the dark so high above the horizon was amazing. It felt like we were surrounded by the billions of sparkling stars of the southern sky, and I’ve never felt so close to them.  

As the ice and snow below us got steeper and my breathing and head got heavier my focus turned down on my step and inward trying to keep happy thoughts in my head. The guides, Adriano and Daniel, had prepared most of the route the day before, so most of the climb was like walking a staircase, a steep and icy staircase that required crampons.  Even though the climb wasn’t hard or technical it was definitely times I doubted if I’d make it, feeling hungrier and more nauseous for every step up the seemingly endless path heading up into the dark.

As day broke and we were able to see more of the surroundings my morale improved a lot and on our way up the last steep incline we finally saw the twin tops of the mountain. It didn’t matter that I had to vomit my coca tea, I could see the summit, and we were going to make it.

From the top we got an amazing view with Ausangate and other peaks surrounding us, lakes and glaciers beneath us and 3-4000 meter high mountains looking like small humps in the distance.